"I've never ridden a wave like that," said Mr. Cotton, the Daily Mail reported
"I am so lucky to be able to do this," said Mr. Cotton, who supports his two children as a part-time pro surfer, plumber and lifeguard. "It's not like skiing — if you find the biggest mountain, that's it. Waves are always changing and surfers can never know what's coming."
© Copyright 2019 The Washington Times, LLC
3600 New York Avenue NE, Washington, DC 20002